Amalfi Coast
Where to Stay in the Amalfi Coast
So you’ve already made the right decision if you are planning a trip to the Amalfi Coast. Determining which town to stay in is the next part - we were going back and forth between Sorrento and Positano. We ended up staying in Positano and are so happy we did (if *when* we go back, I would stay in Positano again). No matter which town you pick, I do recommend staying in one town and having that be your home base. It is so easy to get around the coast, and pretty beautiful too, there is no reason to have to bring all your luggage with you as you explore.
Getting There
We flew directly into Rome and then took an hour train to Naples. From Naples, we had a cab drive us the hour to Positano. There is the option of taking a cab directly from Rome to the Amalfi Coast, but I honestly prefer the easy train ride. If you are thinking of renting a car and doing the driving on your own, be warned the streets near the coast are very steep and narrow. An extra plus is you can have your cab driver take you on a small detour to Pompeii before your final destination. Chances are, your driver probably knows a tour guide at Pompeii and can make your experience at Pompeii an easy and enjoyable one.
Where to Stay in Positano
No matter which town you stay at along the coast, you’ll have to decide if you want to stay down close to the water or higher up in the town for the views. There are a lot of stairs to get down to the beaches and the main town, so it can be a bit challenging for some travelers. To avoid the stairs, an easy option is to take the local bus. There are only a few taxis in the town, and given all the one-way streets, the cab lines are not worth the wait. Whether you choose to find a ride or hike the stairs, I highly recommend staying higher up on the cliff to enjoy the scenery and sunsets.
There are many beautiful hotels and villas to choose from. We spent a week at this airbnb that was the perfect size for our family. With the views, patio and pool - it was one of the main highlights of our trip.
Explore
We had a full week in Positano and there was no shortage of things to do. Some of our favorites include:
Beaches - Spiaggia Grande and Fornillo were the two beaches we went to in Positano. Both have the beach clubs with chairs and umbrellas to rent and food/drink for purchase. Spiaggia Grande is the main beach by the town, whereas Fornillo feels a little more secluded
Boat Cruise - we booked a private cruise through Lucibello Positano and had Matteo as our captain. Since our trip was in August (a very popular time for tourists) we booked weeks in advance to reserve our spot. We ended up having so much fun the first day, that we were able to schedule another cruise for later in the trip. The cruise picks up / drops off from Spiaggia Grande and the views from the boat are unbeatable. Our crew was so helpful and took us all along the coast and made sure we saw all the highlights. We docked for lunch in Capri, went south to see the town of Almafi and did a lot of cliff jumping in between. We decided to skip the lines to see the famous blue grotto, but Matteo took us to many other grottoes along the coast that did not disappoint.
Path of the Gods - this gorgeous hike took us 2 - 3 hours to complete. We took a cab to the starting point in Bomerano and took the path towards Positano and ended up in Nocelle. Once in Nocelle, we took a bus back to Positano. Although beautiful, this path is not for the faint of heart. Some sections of the trail are very steep and it was closed for a weeks prior to our trip due to some bad accidents involving tourists.
Cooking Class - We booked an evening cooking class with Marina in Cucina. Marina helped us prepare a full Italian meal - which included making pasta from scratch and her signature Limoncello Chicken. We enjoyed our delicious dinner outside on her patio, conveniently a few houses above our airbnb!
Eats + Drinks
The Wine Shop Positano - this wine shop in town had the best deli sandwiches. We would pick up sandwiches to bring on the beach/boat. The wine isn’t so bad either.
Franco’s Bar - part of the stunning Le Sirenuse hotel, this seaside bar is opens at 5PM each day weather permitting. Unfortunately, with the long-lines to get in and the weather (they are very strict about closing even if there is just a little rain given how slippery the tile there is), we weren’t able to grab a cocktail here. Still on my list for next time.
Da Gabrisa - one of the best dinners we had on the trip (besides Marina’s cooking class). This restaurant and wine bar is tucked away in a more remote area of town, away from the busy town center and closer to the residential area, making it all the more charming.
Gallis Sky Bar - located in the Hotel Villa Franca (HVF) this is the place to enjoy an Aperol Spritz. Although a little pricier than other places in town, the views are incredible and it is more of a hidden gem than Franco’s Bar
La Tagliata - this family restaurant is quite the experience. There is no menu, just a fixed price per guest, and the servers will bring you out dish after dish. You will not leave hungry. There is only one seating per night and a few songs/dances throughout the dinner - making it a bit touristy. The restaurant will arrange for transportation to and from the dinner, given everyone finishes at the same time. Unfortunately, they had some issues getting my family back to our hotel and we were stuck at the restaurant for quite some time. I know quite a few people who have really enjoyed this restaurant, but I personally would not recommend it.
